[Rob XLT-CG]

I’m trying to get a gauge for what everyone’s break in practices are for their new ride. Please vote or comment with your method and explain why you do what you do.

I will change the oil at 1,500, 3,000, 6,000, 10,000, and every 5k from there. The transmission fluid at 5k, 10k, 20k, 50k, and every 50k from there on.

I know the engine being new there will be lots of metal shavings inside the components. I want to get those out as soon as possible. I will also drive the car like a baby for the first 1,500 miles to and keep her below 80MPH.

Way to much overkill? Probably, but I want to keep this truck for 15 years and fluid is cheap!

 

[ZZbuggs]

Where would these metal (metro) shavings be coming from ??

 

[TerryE]

I’m trying to get a gauge for what everyone’s break in practices are for their new ride. Please vote or comment with your method and explain why you do what you do.

I will change the oil at 1,500, 3,000, 6,000, and 10,000. The. Every 5k from there. The transmission fluid at 5k, 10k, 20k, and every 50k, and every 50k from there on.

I know the engine being new there will be lots of metal shavings inside the components. I want to get those out as soon as possible. I will also drive the car like a baby for the first 1,500 miles to and keep her below 80MPH.

Way to much overkill? Probably, but I want to keep this truck for 15 years and fluid is cheap!

Just follow the manufacturer guidelines. My Dealer also has a lifetime powertrain warranty but all maintenance must be done with that dealer location, (which is close anyway).

 

[The Weatherman]

Same here.

 

[Rob XLT-CG]

Where would these metal (metro) shavings be coming from ??

thanks for the correction, Dang auto correct.

metal shavings come from the various components inside the engine. The engine is made up of metal components. Each will have been cleaned of course but think of the metal shavings like glitter. Very small and hard to clean up. There will also be some settling of new components during break in, maybe a little scrapping off of stuck on fragments from molding, forging, and cutting of the metal. These will be washed away by the oil. This is a normal process and to be expected. Now, maybe just me, but I want those out of my engine as soon as possible.

 

[Rob XLT-CG]

Just follow the manufacturer guidelines. My Dealer also has a lifetime powertrain warranty but all maintenance must be done with that dealer location, (which is close anyway).

I move every couple years for my job so I would never have that option. Manufacture guidelines suck form my experience

 

[ZZbuggs]

thanks for the correction, Dang auto correct.

metal shavings come from the various components inside the engine. The engine is made up of metal components. Each will have been cleaned of course but think of the metal shavings like glitter. Very small and hard to clean up. There will also be some settling of new components during break in, maybe a little scrapping off of stuck on fragments from molding, forging, and cutting of the metal. These will be washed away by the oil. This is a normal process and to be expected. Now, maybe just me, but I want those out of my engine as soon as possible.

Thanks, I would have thought that any shavings would be cause for concern, I will definitely change my oil sooner than later.

 

[Wire4money]

Have had many new vehicles when I owned my company. I followed manufacturers oil change intervals. With the Chevys, the first oil change popped up around 7k. Never had a problem. Any debris in the engine is filtered out. A friend has one of my old vans with almost 200k on it. It does not leak nor burn anything.

 

[flipfloptan]

Just like any car I have had since the 80s. I just follow the manufacturer recommendations on oil changes. A "break in period" is a thing of the past. All that is handle in the production now. Since I do tow a small RV I have the transmission fluid changed before the recommended time. Usually half of what is recommended, then normal time frame.

 

[Rob XLT-CG]

I’m surprised to see as many people avoiding a “break in” oil change. It is cheap insurance IMO.

 

[Wire4money]

I’m surprised to see as many people avoiding a “break in” oil change. It is cheap insurance IMO.

Machining tolerances are much better than they were 50 years ago. Manufacturers no longer use a break in oil.

 

[John in Hawaii]

they say that synthetic oil has longer mileage gaps between changes than conventional oils, like 2,000 miles longer. anyone agree with me?

 

[428PI]

5k, 10k, 20k, etc. on tranny oil? I've been in the mechanic business for 40 plus years and never heard of that. You'll find out how hard it is to actually check tranny oil and you'll change your tune.

 

[Rob XLT-CG]

5k, 10k, 20k, etc. on tranny oil? I've been in the mechanic business for 40 plus years and never heard of that. You'll find out how hard it is to actually check tranny oil and you'll change your tune.

I’m paranoid. I had replaced 2 transmissions on my Nissan Altima, my Kia Rio trans died at 60k. Nissan Versa trans fluid was black at 30k miles, still running but is rough at 80k miles. My Prius trans is starting to make strange noises. Very easy to change fluid on all them, just to lazy to do it. I won’t do that this time.

 

[Shay]

There is always following owners manual recommended procedure.

 

[WNYEscapee]

I prefer to do the first one earlier too, though no longer due to the break-in materials in the oil. While tolerances are closer, machining practices have also become much more refined, too. Besides, that debris should easily remain contained within the filter.
From what an engineer had told a family friends son who worked for GM about oil changes; they'll honor the warranty if you do as they recommend, but if you really want it to last and be trouble free, continue to change your oil every 3,000 miles. Keep in mind, extended interval oil changes allow the accumulation of more contaminants, especially if you're in a part of the country where you see major temperature fluctuations throughout the year. These contaminants eat at seals, gaskets, and bearings; keep your oil changed more frequently if you're in a region where seasons bring wider temperature changes, and more so if you drive shorter trips during those colder months.

 

[Toddio12]

We had a general manager who would get a new conversion van every year. First oil change was when he traded it in. You knew because at that time the original filter was the same color gray as the engine block.
10,000 miles, almost 15,000 once. Yeah. I don't recommend that. I think the used car dept. sent those straight to auction because we never saw then again.

 

[Newbernwolf]

I prefer to do the first one earlier too, though no longer due to the break-in materials in the oil. While tolerances are closer, machining practices have also become much more refined, too. Besides, that debris should easily remain contained within the filter.
From what an engineer had told a family friends son who worked for GM about oil changes; they'll honor the warranty if you do as they recommend, but if you really want it to last and be trouble free, continue to change your oil every 3,000 miles. Keep in mind, extended interval oil changes allow the accumulation of more contaminants, especially if you're in a part of the country where you see major temperature fluctuations throughout the year. These contaminants eat at seals, gaskets, and bearings; keep your oil changed more frequently if you're in a region where seasons bring wider temperature changes, and more so if you drive shorter trips during those colder months.

😃😃😃 There's no reasonable science behind changing the oil more often than what the manufacturer recommends.

 

[grumpyunk]

I do not believe in changing the oil the first thing that I do. FoMoCo is not going to put junk oil into something they have to warranty for thousands of miles. If the filter cannot filter out the bits of metal shavings, then it is not much of a filter. I also expect that the quantity of shavings left after cleanup are significantly reduced from practices of old. I think the machined parts go through as thorough a cleaning as can be done, something like the rotating cleaners(vertical rotisserie) used in machine shops.
All that said, the ecoboost engines are not as 'clean' in general as normally aspirated engines. There seems to be a lot more blowby, likely due to the boost pressure, than otherwise occurs.
There is a youtube channel "boss ford me", I think, that showed the pistons from an ecoboost with 5k on the clock. Looked to be covered with brown goo.
I will watch what happens to the oil in the pan, visually and by its odor, looking for color change and the odor of fuel that would dilute the oil. If I see that, it's likely time to change. Other than that, I plan on 4k-4.5k mile intervals. Motorcraft or Purolator filters.
tom

 

[Toddio12]

There are so many opinions on the oil debate. I've read so many articles, opinions, and etc. And frankly, I still have no idea what is true.
But, I do not think there has ever been a case of engine failure caused by fresh, clean engine oil which meets OE specifications.