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How difficult is it to remove and handle the skid plate?
Not hard at all, its just a stiff felt tray, very lightweight and it supports itself on two tabs at the front and one on the rear subframe while you put the screws in. You've got to bend it a fair bit to get it on to those tabs though. Not sure how long it'll last, but to me its basically a throwaway part once its worn out.
 

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I just did my FX4. It to was very easy, though it had 8 bolts and 8 screws to remove the steel undercover. Oil filter is easy to get to, drain plug east. Much better than my previous F150 5.0.
 

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I used a Channelock 460 to get the oil filter off ( 460 16.5-inch Straight Jaw Tongue & Groove Pliers | Channellock, Inc. ). Works well. Just need to loosen the old filter with that, then hand-remove. Hand tighten the new oil filter only.

On oil filters, the original oil filter is very small, about 2 or 3 inches long is all.
Fits:
--- Fram Ultra XG3614 or *Motorcraft FL910S are 3.3" long.
--- Fram Ultra XG3600 is 4.9", *Motorcraft FL400S is 4.7", both more surface area to filter better with less pressure drop.
*Motorcraft still might use the old Purolator (business contract) media, and they have a bad reputation for getting holes in them in service, so Fram Ultra all the way here. Ultra has by far the best filtering too, another bonus choosing that.

I don't think you need ramps or jack stands, .... no lift. Just drive onto a couple of 2x4 or 2x6 pieces of wood;;; each one laid lengthwise in front of the tires. Raises about 1.5", good enough extra for some folks, very safe that way too. Piece of cardboard or tarp on the floor if you need it to slide under.

Recommend a GoldPlug AP-04 magnetic drain plug to catch small iron particles (fuzz) too small to get caught in the oil filter. Break-in creates a little too much iron dust.

Use a drain plug gasket coated in rubber for better sealing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NPYW4TD/

0w-20 in the winter, & I prefer a 5w-30 in the summer or when towing.
 

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Did my first oil change>>>> not to [email protected] Coconut [email protected] Ford @ 1000 miles. It's so simple. > being sarcastic < but it is expensive for your dealer to do it. They, the service tech's looked at me like I was crazy>>> oil change at 1000 miles? yeap get that sinking factory oil OUT! I have done it to ALL my new vehicles, Chevy's 😆 included. 😣 This is my first new Ford. Was a NEVER ford guy. But GM left me, with their junk. It's sad, too.
 

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The oil that came out of mine had plenty of sparkle to it. ✨
That's why a mag drain plug and oversized Fram Ultra, which does better than 74% down to 10 microns, is good to have. Not liking that circulating.

I just tried one of these out for the first time. Clean, E-Z oil changes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082TNCJP8 . Anybody try it? I've heard some dealerships do it that way. ....

With that tool, I'm thinking about using a 20,000-mile-rated oil filter for 20,000 miles, and just pump the oil out the dipstick hole every 6 months or so. That way, less crawling under the car too often. I powered the pump with one of those Li-ion 12v jump start batteries. One should drain out the plug every 3 years to clear the mag drain plug and wash out crud in the sump once in a while.
 

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2022 Ford Maverick 2003 Mini Cooper, Sold my 2015 Tundra after ordering Maverick HPR XLT
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That's why a mag drain plug and oversized Fram Ultra, which does better than 74% down to 10 microns, is good to have. Not liking that circulating.

I just tried one of these out for the first time. Clean, E-Z oil changes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082TNCJP8 . Anybody try it? I've heard some dealerships do it that way. ....

With that tool, I'm thinking about using a 20,000-mile-rated oil filter for 20,000 miles, and just pump the oil out the dipstick hole every 6 months or so. That way, less crawling under the car too often. I powered the pump with one of those Li-ion 12v jump start batteries. One should drain out the plug every 3 years to clear the mag drain plug and wash out crud in the sump once in a while.
I have used a pump like that a long time ago, but I prefer getting under the car and draining every drop out.
 

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I have used a pump like that a long time ago, but I prefer getting under the car and draining every drop out.
It is better to use the drain plug when you can. ... I guess for some folks who seldom or never want to crawl underneath it's good to pump it out (live in an apartment complex or don't like it under the vehicle, etc.).

Could go to jiffy lube or dealership about every 3 years for a full drain-plug change, for those who have to trust it to someone else.

One advantage to pumping it out: I pumped out exactly 4 quarts because that's how much new oil I had left in some bottles. Seems we always end up with left-overs after a while.

I pumped it into a marked container so I could see 4 quarts came out, and then measured 4 quarts to put back in. It's a partial oil change, but a way to clear out some break-in oil that has too much Fe & Al floating around in it.

I'm against mixing different types of oil brands, and my left-over 4 quarts brand and weight did match what I put in fully before, so no mixing here.. In general, a little mixing of diff brands doesn't seem to be a major problem anyway, usually.
 
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