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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
first off, I'm sorry, but it freaking kills me when I call by phone, to talk to a Ford representative with a technical question, and they connect me with some lady, most likely at home in her living room, and maybe changing her kids diapers, or feeding the dog, while she tries to answer my question on her hands free headset. Of course this lady knows absolutely nothing about my question, or even Mavericks in general, so whatever I ask her, she has to try to find it in her information booklet while I wait....... and wait..... Urgggg...

But I digress. I'm still trying to get a number... "What is the number of amps I can safely draw from the Maverick Hybrid electrical system" ???
 

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first off, I'm sorry, but it freaking kills me when I call by phone, to talk to a Ford representative with a technical question, and they connect me with some lady, most likely at home in her living room, and maybe changing her kids diapers, or feeding the dog, while she tries to answer my question on her hands free headset. Of course this lady knows absolutely nothing about my question, or even Mavericks in general, so whatever I ask her, she has to try to find it in her information booklet while I wait....... and wait..... Urgggg...

But I digress. I'm still trying to get a number... "What is the number of amps I can safely draw from the Maverick Hybrid electrical system" ???
Are you referring to how many amps you can draw from the traction batteries or from the 12v system at the battery and DC to DC converter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would think Ford would say that it would be the amperage of which auxiliary circuit you are connecting to is fused.
They won't even tell me that much ?
Are you referring to how many amps you can draw from the traction batteries or from the 12v system at the battery and DC to DC converter?
I wouldn't even consider trying to draw "any" power straight from the high voltage traction battery. Not only would that certainly void your warranty, but it could kill you too !
No, I just mean from the 12 volt side.
Like they say my Prius is good for up to 30 amps. I'm actually running an amp that is fused for 100 amps, but it probably only pulls 30-50 on a regular basis. Zero problems with that. I'm not trying to do much more than this is my GF's Maverick, but still, it would be good to know it had a 40 or 50 amp maximum draw.
I'd be surprised if it were only the same as my little Prius. I mean, it is a truck... Albeit a light duty one.
 

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This may partially help from Maverick Manual Page 290-300

2022 Ford Maverick Owner Manuals
Page 151 : " POWER OUTLET PRECAUTIONS When you switch the vehicle on, you can use the socket to power 12 V appliances with a maximum current rating of 15 A. Do not use the power point over the vehicle capacity of 12 V DC 180 W or a fuse could blow"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Page 151 : " POWER OUTLET PRECAUTIONS When you switch the vehicle on, you can use the socket to power 12 V appliances with a maximum current rating of 15 A. Do not use the power point over the vehicle capacity of 12 V DC 180 W or a fuse could blow"
Hmmm. Here's the thing, those outlets are probably fused for that, but I'm not talking about using an outlet. I'm talking about coming straight off of the 12 volt battery, the way that most car audio amplifiers are wired....
 

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Page 151 : " POWER OUTLET PRECAUTIONS When you switch the vehicle on, you can use the socket to power 12 V appliances with a maximum current rating of 15 A. Do not use the power point over the vehicle capacity of 12 V DC 180 W or a fuse could blow"
I have no idea what amps he is using but 500 watt RMS is about all you can stand in a small space. That's around 40 amps of power so he has to go old school and run a 8 gauge wire with inline fuse to the battery. The power outlet wire is to small to be of use in this application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have no idea what amps he is using but 500 watt RMS is about all you can stand in a small space. That's around 40 amps of power so he has to go old school and run a 8 gauge wire with inline fuse to the battery. The power outlet wire is to small to be of use in this application.
I'm not trying to sound rude, or disrespectful, but in all seriousness, "being able to stand" 500 wtts rms totally depends on a lot of things, especially the distortion factor.
I've talked about this a ton in the past, but > even a person who is not really into loud, music, would be very surprised to find out how many watts they were able to stand.... or even preferred, in a vehicle over road noise and such. It's actually a very interesting phenomena. How many times have you heard folks say, "This little 30 watt factory stereo already gets louder than I can stand it" ? Okay, so here's the truth about that, at probably 15 watts, that little factory stereo is already experiencing some distortion > which gives the "illusion" of loudness. By 30 watts, is so distorted, almost nobody could stand it. Now, take a professionally set up stereo system, with multiple speakers and maybe a "strong" if not big subwoofer(s). Lets say said system is 3500 watts. (the system in my F150 is 3500 watts) To even get the speakers moving, especially the subwoofer, takes a couple hundred watts, but at this point, its not loud whatsoever (to ones ears) because their is close to "zero" distortion. Now, put somebody in my truck that tells you they are not into that LOUD boom boom music (my GF for instance :) ) and even when she is driving my truck, she will often use 1000 wts, and not even realize it. Now here's another interesting point, flashing back to that 30 watt stock system that the guy said was "already louder than he could stand"... that system might have been hitting 112 db's.... but with loads of distortion (which is horrible on ones ears). The 3500 wt system in my truck "at only 1000 wts" might be hitting 128 db's (these numbers are not accurate, but just to explain a point) but be totally comfortable to listen to, because it is so clean ! In fact, you might not think it was loud at all, unless you went to talk to someone, and you couldn't hear yourself, or them.

Moral of the story; Your far better off to have a 1000 wt system, and only use 200 or 300 watts of that, then to have a 40 wt system, and trying to use even 35 watts of it.

PS, the frequency one is trying to produce also makes a big difference in the wattage required. To make any bass at all below 30 hz or so, and do it cleanly, in a way which blends naturally with the rest of the music, AND do it over hwy road noise, can easily suck up a 1000 wts > and not even overpower the rest of the music.
 

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They won't even tell me that much ?

I wouldn't even consider trying to draw "any" power straight from the high voltage traction battery. Not only would that certainly void your warranty, but it could kill you too !
No, I just mean from the 12 volt side.
Like they say my Prius is good for up to 30 amps. I'm actually running an amp that is fused for 100 amps, but it probably only pulls 30-50 on a regular basis. Zero problems with that. I'm not trying to do much more than this is my GF's Maverick, but still, it would be good to know it had a 40 or 50 amp maximum draw.
I'd be surprised if it were only the same as my little Prius. I mean, it is a truck... Albeit a light duty one.
I have been looking for that information as well. I want to install a pure sine wave inverter. The largest one you can install is usually determined by the capacity of the alternator but the hybrid uses a DC to DC converter. There is a lot of information available about the power available in a ICE vehicles but very little is available for hybrids. Even less for the Maverick.

For your application, there is a 60A fuse on both Auxiliary Heater and Power Inverter circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have been looking for that information as well. I want to install a pure sine wave inverter. The largest one you can install is usually determined by the capacity of the alternator but the hybrid uses a DC to DC converter. There is a lot of information available about the power available in a ICE vehicles but very little is available for hybrids. Even less for the Maverick.

For your application, there is a 60A fuse on both Auxiliary Heater and Power Inverter circuits.
Really ? That's actually great news ! Now I need to see what those fuses are in my Prius.... Hoping its less, because the 800 wt, 5 ch amp I'm running in it, is fused for 100 amps, and has never been a problem.
 

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Really ? That's actually great news ! Now I need to see what those fuses are in my Prius.... Hoping its less, because the 800 wt, 5 ch amp I'm running in it, is fused for 100 amps, and has never been a problem.
Learn something new every day on this forum... Thanks Guys!!
 

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I'm not trying to sound rude, or disrespectful, but in all seriousness, "being able to stand" 500 wtts rms totally depends on a lot of things, especially the distortion factor.
I've talked about this a ton in the past, but > even a person who is not really into loud, music, would be very surprised to find out how many watts they were able to stand.... or even preferred, in a vehicle over road noise and such. It's actually a very interesting phenomena. How many times have you heard folks say, "This little 30 watt factory stereo already gets louder than I can stand it" ? Okay, so here's the truth about that, at probably 15 watts, that little factory stereo is already experiencing some distortion > which gives the "illusion" of loudness. By 30 watts, is so distorted, almost nobody could stand it. Now, take a professionally set up stereo system, with multiple speakers and maybe a "strong" if not big subwoofer(s). Lets say said system is 3500 watts. (the system in my F150 is 3500 watts) To even get the speakers moving, especially the subwoofer, takes a couple hundred watts, but at this point, its not loud whatsoever (to ones ears) because their is close to "zero" distortion. Now, put somebody in my truck that tells you they are not into that LOUD boom boom music (my GF for instance :) ) and even when she is driving my truck, she will often use 1000 wts, and not even realize it. Now here's another interesting point, flashing back to that 30 watt stock system that the guy said was "already louder than he could stand"... that system might have been hitting 112 db's.... but with loads of distortion (which is horrible on ones ears). The 3500 wt system in my truck "at only 1000 wts" might be hitting 128 db's (these numbers are not accurate, but just to explain a point) but be totally comfortable to listen to, because it is so clean ! In fact, you might not think it was loud at all, unless you went to talk to someone, and you couldn't hear yourself, or them.

Moral of the story; Your far better off to have a 1000 wt system, and only use 200 or 300 watts of that, then to have a 40 wt system, and trying to use even 35 watts of it.

PS, the frequency one is trying to produce also makes a big difference in the wattage required. To make any bass at all below 30 hz or so, and do it cleanly, in a way which blends naturally with the rest of the music, AND do it over hwy road noise, can easily suck up a 1000 wts > and not even overpower the rest of the music.

Very interesting, but human hearing and perception of phase, amplitude differences and distortion has not been well studied in a perfect acoustical hall like the Maverick Truck Cab. You are right more power will give cleaner signals without clipping signals. A truck cab with road noise will take one perfect pitch ear to sort the signals out and any noise above 90db whether a 30 watt or 3000 watt amp, no matter how great it sounds, will start to damage the ear nerve bundle.

Original question, Ford probably won't be able to give a definitive answer to battery current draw because of all the parasitic activity going on in a hybrid. I'm pretty confident a extra 40 amp draw on the battery will not affect the operation of the hybrid at all. My only concern would be any current draw from the amp when the truck is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Very interesting, but human hearing and perception of phase, amplitude differences and distortion has not been well studied in a perfect acoustical hall like the Maverick Truck Cab. You are right more power will give cleaner signals without clipping signals. A truck cab with road noise will take one perfect pitch ear to sort the signals out and any noise above 90db whether a 30 watt or 3000 watt amp, no matter how great it sounds, will start to damage the ear nerve bundle.

Original question, Ford probably won't be able to give a definitive answer to battery current draw because of all the parasitic activity going on in a hybrid. I'm pretty confident a extra 40 amp draw on the battery will not affect the operation of the hybrid at all. My only concern would be any current draw from the amp when the truck is off.
Well, in my Prius, their is a "Power on button" in which everything can be operated .. AC, lights, stereo, etc, but the motor will only cycle on and off as needed to keep the big traction battery charged, and the inverter works constantly to keep the 12 volt charged. And you would be surprised how efficient it all is. I can blast my stereo, crank the AC, lights on, charging a couple phones, etc, and the ICE will only fire up for about 1-2 minutes, once every 15 or 20 minutes !

And for anyone who has never owned a Hybrid, let me tell you about the coolest thing since sliced bread 🙂
Say you go somewhere cold, and you want to / or need to sleep in your truck for 6 hours. You simply set your climate control for 73 degrees, and go to sleep. The ICE will only work for a minute or two once ever 15 or 20, fully automatic as needed. And so it will use almost nothing for gas ! I swear if you didn't drive it, but only used the AC or heating, it would go for a month on a tank. Good to know in an apocalypse 😀👍
 

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Well, in my Prius, their is a "Power on button" in which everything can be operated .. AC, lights, stereo, etc, but the motor will only cycle on and off as needed to keep the big traction battery charged, and the inverter works constantly to keep the 12 volt charged. And you would be surprised how efficient it all is. I can blast my stereo, crank the AC, lights on, charging a couple phones, etc, and the ICE will only fire up for about 1-2 minutes, once every 15 or 20 minutes !

And for anyone who has never owned a Hybrid, let me tell you about the coolest thing since sliced bread 🙂
Say you go somewhere cold, and you want to / or need to sleep in your truck for 6 hours. You simply set your climate control for 73 degrees, and go to sleep. The ICE will only work for a minute or two once ever 15 or 20, fully automatic as needed. And so it will use almost nothing for gas ! I swear if you didn't drive it, but only used the AC or heating, it would go for a month on a tank. Good to know in an apocalypse 😀👍
Let's hope the Toyota algorithm is transferred to the Maverick with all the refined technology.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Let's hope the Toyota algorithm is transferred to the Maverick with all the refined technology.
I could be wrong, but I know at least "all Toyota Hybrids" work like this, and I have heard that Ford is using much of the same proven technology used in Toyota Hybrids, which IMPO, is a good thing 👍
 

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What we are still missing is how many amps or watts we can safely draw from the 12v battery and DC to DC converter. I have read that some of the hybrids have a fuse at the battery that could be a guide. Maybe we need to join a Escape forum to see what they have been doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, but two things, First off, "everybody" Including Crutchfield's, is totally erring BIG TIME to the side of safety, for liability reasons, and two, 30 amps, or 350 wts is crap. I mean its okay if all you want is a front stage, but you can forget about a subwoofer :(
As I've said before, I found an installer who had put an aftermarket stereo (and amp) in his wives 2019 Prius LE (same exact car as mine) He actually hooked up bigger, and bigger amps, until he had a problem :oops: A little crazy if you ask me. But better him, than me :) lol So he said that he was able to pull 100 amps all day long, without a problem, but anything much more than that, and it would pop up with a message on the dash saying "Electrical Error". So he dropped back down to amp that was fused for 90 amps, and never had another problem. I chose an amp fused for 90 amps, and in 3 years, I've never had a problem either.
Again, I'd like to think a Maverick Truck, could handler at least as much load as a Prius....
 

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Yes, but two things, First off, "everybody" Including Crutchfield's, is totally erring BIG TIME to the side of safety, for liability reasons, and two, 30 amps, or 350 wts is crap. I mean its okay if all you want is a front stage, but you can forget about a subwoofer :(
As I've said before, I found an installer who had put an aftermarket stereo (and amp) in his wives 2019 Prius LE (same exact car as mine) He actually hooked up bigger, and bigger amps, until he had a problem :oops: A little crazy if you ask me. But better him, than me :) lol So he said that he was able to pull 100 amps all day long, without a problem, but anything much more than that, and it would pop up with a message on the dash saying "Electrical Error". So he dropped back down to amp that was fused for 90 amps, and never had another problem. I chose an amp fused for 90 amps, and in 3 years, I've never had a problem either.
Again, I'd like to think a Maverick Truck, could handler at least as much load as a Prius....
Straight from Ford Electronic Technician, ( I was inquiring about my hybrid and any Eco boosts he was getting in )

When the truck is in ready mode, you basically can’t drain the 12 V battery unless you run out of gas or consistently pull more than 1000 W off it. The engine is started by the hybrid battery, however the 12 V powers all the computers and whatnot so if that dies you can’t start the car. You just need a quick jump to power the computer and the hybrid battery will do the heavy lifting of getting the engine turning over. If the hybrid battery somehow completely dies, you’re SOL. Do not bring your truck into the dealer for warranty repair with the amp hooked up especially if you have any electrical issue.

That's 80+ amps but not encouraged by Ford and you will never see that spec in any Ford manual.

Go for it, all that could happen is a dash warning displaying electrical issues and turn off stereo.
 
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