[Fishchris]

Hello all. First post here. I have been on the other Maverick forum for a little while though. Anyway, Having a nice sounding stereo is totally critical for me in any vehicle. Put it this way, if I knew ahead of time, that this were not going to be possible, this would be a deal breaker for me.

Now, I have a system in my little Prius, that sounds absolutely awesome ! That is what I would like to replicate. Only problem is, in my Prius, I'm using a little plug and play DSP, which is made specifically for my Toyota Prius. (Axxess DSP X) which unfortunately, is not going to be made for the Maverick, for at least a few months "after it hits the streets" {oh, that DSP plays into a nice little 5ch 900 wt kicker amp, which powers my mids and highs, and a beefy but tiny little 8" sub woofer, which sounds amazing} .... so I'm sure not going 6 months with nothing to listen to in the Maverick.

Recently, someone on that other forum reminded me of these awesome little pieces of tech.... kicker key at Crutchfield
I think these might just be the answer ! Fantastic reviews, and nobody talking about problems with using speaker level inputs. (used to be a common problem with alternator whine in the old days).
So I talked to a tech guy at Crutchfield's, and now their is only one more consideration > I wonder how many amps of draw, Ford is going to consider safe ???

My Prius, Toyota says its only safe to pull 30 amps ? ...which is pretty weak. But I found an installer online (who recommended that Axxess DSP X) and had installed a system in his wifes Prius (same year and model as mine) in which the 5 ch amp he was using, was fused for 100 amps. Granted it probably only actually pulls 40 or 50 during hard use. Anyway, he never had a problem. But then he said, he actually hooked up an amp that pulled a little over 100 amps, and it didn't fry anything, but he did get a a pop up warning him of an electrical error.
Anyway, the 5ch amp in my Prius is fused for 90 amps, and I've never had a problem. I'd like to think that the electrical system in this little truck would be "at least as strong" as in my Prius.

Your thoughts ?

PS, The upgraded stereo option is totally ridiculous ! $3K more for the Lariat trim in the first place, and another $3.8K for the stereo ! Nearly $7K for a setup I'd bet does not sound as good as my Prius.... and my Prius system only cost $1400

I have one of those ridiculous loud, big systems in my F150, 18" sub, 3500 wts, etc, etc, and it only cost about $3500.

 

[lingle98]

My biggest concern is where to fit a subwoofer, and will I have to attempt to build a custom box?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[Fishchris]

My biggest concern is where to fit a subwoofer, and will I have to attempt to build a custom box?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Hey Mingle, TY for your reply. The enclosure will be easy peasy 😉
I've been building enclosures for about 35 years. Built more than 30 of them.
I'm thinking about a single 8" or 10" sub which will use less than 1 cube net. I'll normally set it behind the passenger seat... My GF is only 5'1", so she has the seat way forward anyway. But it will be totally portable, and can be set in the middle of the backseat for the rare occasion I have 3 passengers. And even with a quick disconnect, so I could completely remove it at any time, or just throw it under my hard top roll up bedcover.

Btw, I will likely build a super simple rectangle box, with the subwoofer on one side, and a passive radiator on the other. Essentially sealed, but the PR acts as a port, which can be easily tuned to 33-38 hz.
If I do this (and do all the designing) I can totally give you a cut sheet.... And you could have it cut at any lumber place and just glue it and screw it.
Not only does a passive radiator make it so much easier, but also, it makes the box smaller, because it doesn't use any port volume 👍

My only concern, is whether or not the electrical system can handle a 40 or 60 amp draw. I can totally imagine Ford saying it can't. (Toyota says my Prius can't, but it actually handles a 40 or 50 amp draw just fine)

 

[lingle98]

I can imagine them saying it cant handle it, but I'd do it anyway. I have a boss 2400W(I think) amplifier driving two 12" subs in store bought enclosures in the trunk of my 2016 dodge dart. I have it fused at 100 amps and did have it dimming the lights a bit until I put a 2.0 farad capacitor in line.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[lingle98]

I wouldn't go that crazy with the maverick, though, definitely not enough space.

In some pictures out there of the lariat, you can see the "upgraded" sound system's amp and sub mounted behind the rear seat, so my thought was to try a slim box behind the seat and try to mount an amp like they have it in the lariat.

 

[null]

You could always cut into the under seat storage.

 

[Fishchris]

I wouldn't go that crazy with the maverick, though, definitely not enough space.

In some pictures out there of the lariat, you can see the "upgraded" sound system's amp and sub mounted behind the rear seat, so my thought was to try a slim box behind the seat and try to mount an amp like they have it in the lariat.

Yea, the thing we have remember about the Maverick though, is that it doesn't use an alternator, but rather, an inverter, that runs off of the larger high voltage battery.
"IF" Ford felt like their was a need for more amps, they could easily run a bigger inverter, and make it capable of a 100 amp, heck, a 300 amp output. It's just that generally speaking, most "normal people" don't need any more than 30 or 50 amps, so their no sense have a huge power inverter when 99% of the buyers would never use it anyway.

I'd have to see how much space there is behind the back seat, but I really have no problem with just having my enclosure be totally portable... From the rear floor... To the middle of the backseat... To under the bed over... To my house. Whatever works 🙂 Won't be that big and heavy anyway.

I guess the box in my F150 is portable too.... Only it weighs about 300 lbs 😃 lol I've joked that if I ever came out of the house and saw some guy running down the street with it, I'm just gonna' let him go, cause that would be one bad @$$ dude, that I probably don't want to mess with 😃 lol

 

[lingle98]

Yea, the thing we have remember about the Maverick though, is that it doesn't use an alternator, but rather, an inverter, that runs off of the larger high voltage battery.
"IF" Ford felt like their was a need for more amps, they could easily run a bigger inverter, and make it capable of a 100 amp, heck, a 300 amp output. It's just that generally speaking, most "normal people" don't need any more than 30 or 50 amps, so their no sense have a huge power inverter when 99% of the buyers would never use it anyway.

I'd have to see how much space there is behind the back seat, but I really have no problem with just having my enclosure be totally portable... From the rear floor... To the middle of the backseat... To under the bed over... To my house. Whatever works 🙂 Won't be that big and heavy anyway.

I guess the box in my F150 is portable too.... Only it weighs about 300 lbs 😃 lol I've joked that if I ever came out of the house and saw some guy running down the street with it, I'm just gonna' let him go, cause that would be one bad @$$ dude, that I probably don't want to mess with 😃 lol

Yup, sorry I didn't realize you were talking about the hybrid setup. I was referencing the Ecoboost 2.0T I ordered when talking about it.

 

[Wire4money]

I replied to you on the other forum. They Kicker Key can be ran off the radio power if it is the only thing on that circuit and fused at 20a. You can buy a male/female harness and make it plug and play. It is small enough to tuck it behind the stereo, and I never had any problems with it overheating, even on long trips. I plan on putting it in my Mav and complementing it with a powered sub.

 

[Fishchris]

Yup, sorry I didn't realize you were talking about the hybrid setup. I was referencing the Ecoboost 2.0T I ordered when talking about it.

Geez, I sure wish mileage was not a concern for me, as I know those ECO boost motors are a LOT stronger than the hybrid. Not to mention the option for double the towing capacity !
....and I do plan to be towing too. Probably only about 1500 lbs, but still, I'd like to have the extra towing available.
Ford makes it hard find out the mileage for the Ecoboost motor, but with some digging, I've heard that it will be 26'ish combined. Just not enough more than my F150 with the 5.4 liter motor to be worth it for me.

 

[Shankins88]

Sundown Audio has a new shallow sub 10‘ SD-4 10” D2 that requires .5-.75 cu ft sealed enclosure . I’m talking to my local guy hoping we can do a custom box to fit 3 if not will figure out what will be ideal for under the rear seat. I have the eco boost so will be cutting out the storage area. Will be replacing the door mids and tweeters with Deaf Bonce set up. Should bump pretty good.

 

[Shark]

A lot of people may scoff at this thing but I dumped my 10" sub and dedicated amp behind the back seats in my Canyon and got this

Amazon.com: Rockville RockGhost Active Powered 8" Hidden Car Subwoofer Sub For 15"/16"/17" Full Size Spare Tire : Electronics

Buy Rockville RockGhost Active Powered 8" Hidden Car Subwoofer Sub For 15"/16"/17" Full Size Spare Tire: Component Subwoofers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

At the time it was like 80 bucks I think. It's already powered so you can ditch an amp, and if you already had an amp use that wiring. Yeah, I'm happy with this and just the 2 speakers in the doors in my regular cab canyon. It's great for providing that little extra subwoofer thump I'm accustomed too, of course it's not as good as the dedicated 10, but the falloff wasn't too extreme and all it takes is a couple days to get used too.. The nice thing is it fits under the seat so I could reclaim my space behind the seat that the 10" sub was hogging. I like this setup way better.

Might be an idea for anyone just looking to add a little kick to the Mav's stock setup.

now obviously for true audio people that are serious it's not going to be for them.

It's kind of my tentative audio plan for if I get a Maverick. Probably just go stock speakers+this. Just under the front seat.

 

[Shankins88]

A lot of people may scoff at this thing but I dumped my 10" sub and dedicated amp behind the back seats in my Canyon and got this

Amazon.com: Rockville RockGhost Active Powered 8" Hidden Car Subwoofer Sub For 15"/16"/17" Full Size Spare Tire : Electronics

Buy Rockville RockGhost Active Powered 8" Hidden Car Subwoofer Sub For 15"/16"/17" Full Size Spare Tire: Component Subwoofers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

At the time it was like 80 bucks I think. It's already powered so you can ditch an amp, and if you already had an amp use that wiring. Yeah, I'm happy with this and just the 2 speakers in the doors in my regular cab canyon. It's great for providing that little extra subwoofer thump I'm accustomed too, of course it's not as good as the dedicated 10, but the falloff wasn't too extreme and all it takes is a couple days to get used too.. The nice thing is it fits under the seat so I could reclaim my space behind the seat that the 10" sub was hogging. I like this setup way better.

Might be an idea for anyone just looking to add a little kick to the Mav's stock setup.

now obviously for true audio people that are serious it's not going to be for them.

you can always go facebook marketplace route as well to save some dollars

 

[Fishchris]

I replied to you on the other forum. They Kicker Key can be ran off the radio power if it is the only thing on that circuit and fused at 20a. You can buy a male/female harness and make it plug and play. It is small enough to tuck it behind the stereo, and I never had any problems with it overheating, even on long trips. I plan on putting it in my Mav and complementing it with a powered sub.

Hey Wired, sorry I'm late for the reply..... Yes, so I saw that the Kicker Key 4 ch is only 20 amps..... But that's the easy one. The Kicker Key mono 500 wt amp is fused for 60 amps. And Id HAVE TO HAVE a nice little 500 wt amp for my subwoofer(s) Still haven't decided on a couple 6 1/2"s, an 8" or two, or a 10" ?
Still Id have to believe those 20 + 60 amp amplifiers "might" draw as much as 40 or 50 amps, continuously during heavy use ? I mean, I have a 5ch, 900 wt Kicker amp in my Prius that is fused for 90 amps, and I've never had any issues with it. I think it would be pretty bad if the Maverick were not at least as electrically solid as a Prius ?

BTW, I called Ford Motor Company to enquire about this already, and after 20 minutes on the phone, the final answer was, "We don't have a final answer for this yet". Please call back again in a few weeks

 

[Wire4money]

Hey Wired, sorry I'm late for the reply..... Yes, so I saw that the Kicker Key 4 ch is only 20 amps..... But that's the easy one. The Kicker Key mono 500 wt amp is fused for 60 amps. And Id HAVE TO HAVE a nice little 500 wt amp for my subwoofer(s) Still haven't decided on a couple 6 1/2"s, an 8" or two, or a 10" ?
Still Id have to believe those 20 + 60 amp amplifiers "might" draw as much as 40 or 50 watts, continuously during heavy use ? I mean, I have a 5ch, 900 wt Kicker amp in my Prius that is fused for 90 amps, and I've never had any issues with it. I think it would be pretty bad if the Maverick were not at least as electrically solid as a Prius ?

BTW, I called Ford Motor Company to enquire about this already, and after 20 minutes on the phone, the final answer was, "We don't have a final answer for this yet". Please call back again in a few weeks

Kicker key i wired into the same wiring as my factory head unit

 

[Cinquecentonero]

Hello all. First post here. I have been on the other Maverick forum for a little while though. Anyway, Having a nice sounding stereo is totally critical for me in any vehicle. Put it this way, if I knew ahead of time, that this were not going to be possible, this would be a deal breaker for me.

Now, I have a system in my little Prius, that sounds absolutely awesome ! That is what I would like to replicate. Only problem is, in my Prius, I'm using a little plug and play DSP, which is made specifically for my Toyota Prius. (Axxess DSP X) which unfortunately, is not going to be made for the Maverick, for at least a few months "after it hits the streets" {oh, that DSP plays into a nice little 5ch 900 wt kicker amp, which powers my mids and highs, and a beefy but tiny little 8" sub woofer, which sounds amazing} .... so I'm sure not going 6 months with nothing to listen to in the Maverick.

Recently, someone on that other forum reminded me of these awesome little pieces of tech.... kicker key at Crutchfield
I think these might just be the answer ! Fantastic reviews, and nobody talking about problems with using speaker level inputs. (used to be a common problem with alternator whine in the old days).
So I talked to a tech guy at Crutchfield's, and now their is only one more consideration > I wonder how many amps of draw, Ford is going to consider safe ???

My Prius, Toyota says its only safe to pull 30 amps ? ...which is pretty weak. But I found an installer online (who recommended that Axxess DSP X) and had installed a system in his wifes Prius (same year and model as mine) in which the 5 ch amp he was using, was fused for 100 amps. Granted it probably only actually pulls 40 or 50 during hard use. Anyway, he never had a problem. But then he said, he actually hooked up an amp that pulled a little over 100 amps, and it didn't fry anything, but he did get a a pop up warning him of an electrical error.
Anyway, the 5ch amp in my Prius is fused for 90 amps, and I've never had a problem. I'd like to think that the electrical system in this little truck would be "at least as strong" as in my Prius.

Your thoughts ?

PS, The upgraded stereo option is totally ridiculous ! $3K more for the Lariat trim in the first place, and another $3.8K for the stereo ! Nearly $7K for a setup I'd bet does not sound as good as my Prius.... and my Prius system only cost $1400

I have one of those ridiculous loud, big systems in my F150, 18" sub, 3500 wts, etc, etc, and it only cost about $3500.

Holy smokes I feel dumb!

 

[Kvautrin]

My biggest concern is where to fit a subwoofer, and will I have to attempt to build a custom box?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

From what I understand there is room behind rear seat if u have the lariat model it comes with one there

 

[thescher]

Hello all. First post here. I have been on the other Maverick forum for a little while though. Anyway, Having a nice sounding stereo is totally critical for me in any vehicle. Put it this way, if I knew ahead of time, that this were not going to be possible, this would be a deal breaker for me.

Now, I have a system in my little Prius, that sounds absolutely awesome ! That is what I would like to replicate. Only problem is, in my Prius, I'm using a little plug and play DSP, which is made specifically for my Toyota Prius. (Axxess DSP X) which unfortunately, is not going to be made for the Maverick, for at least a few months "after it hits the streets" {oh, that DSP plays into a nice little 5ch 900 wt kicker amp, which powers my mids and highs, and a beefy but tiny little 8" sub woofer, which sounds amazing} .... so I'm sure not going 6 months with nothing to listen to in the Maverick.

Recently, someone on that other forum reminded me of these awesome little pieces of tech.... kicker key at Crutchfield
I think these might just be the answer ! Fantastic reviews, and nobody talking about problems with using speaker level inputs. (used to be a common problem with alternator whine in the old days).
So I talked to a tech guy at Crutchfield's, and now their is only one more consideration > I wonder how many amps of draw, Ford is going to consider safe ???

My Prius, Toyota says its only safe to pull 30 amps ? ...which is pretty weak. But I found an installer online (who recommended that Axxess DSP X) and had installed a system in his wifes Prius (same year and model as mine) in which the 5 ch amp he was using, was fused for 100 amps. Granted it probably only actually pulls 40 or 50 during hard use. Anyway, he never had a problem. But then he said, he actually hooked up an amp that pulled a little over 100 amps, and it didn't fry anything, but he did get a a pop up warning him of an electrical error.
Anyway, the 5ch amp in my Prius is fused for 90 amps, and I've never had a problem. I'd like to think that the electrical system in this little truck would be "at least as strong" as in my Prius.

Your thoughts ?

PS, The upgraded stereo option is totally ridiculous ! $3K more for the Lariat trim in the first place, and another $3.8K for the stereo ! Nearly $7K for a setup I'd bet does not sound as good as my Prius.... and my Prius system only cost $1400

I have one of those ridiculous loud, big systems in my F150, 18" sub, 3500 wts, etc, etc, and it only cost about $3500.

Went to the Pittsburgh Auto Show & got a look at the Maverick & the storage area below the rear seat. It's at ~ 12" deep ~18"W X ~13"L. There are 2 compartments (if you have the Eco-Boost - 1 for the Hybrid due to the second battery on the passenger side) & a hump for the drive shaft. I was thinking how deep of a sub I good get in there. Looking at the JL Audio 10TW3-D8 Shallow series woofers. My install tech said why don't we just take the cargo compartment out & build a custom box. I'm putting 2 of those woofers in a custom box with at least a 600 watt sub amp. Screw those self powered skinny little subs. We'll remove the factory amp & put a 4 channel in for the 6 cab full range speaker which we'll upgrade. I wanted the Lariat Lux package for the B & O but for minimal$$ I can build a better system.

 

[FireOne]

Hello, new here, ordering a 2023 Lariat w/AWD Eco and just getting the stock stereo as I will be upgrading way past the B&O system. I had the B&O system in my 2019 Raptor and the Head Unit required a Nav TV Zen digital to analog converter to send signal to my Audiocontrol DSP/Amps/(9)Speakers. Sounds fantastic. I want something similar in the Maverick but intend to try something different and want to know if anyone has tried what I propose and how it worked.
I propose to leave all but the front door speakers in place and have two complete systems in the truck, the stock for Radio and Navigation and a second system with HQ Bluetooth sending the signal directly into my Audiocontrol DSP/Amps and either (8) or (10) Speakers depending on Subwoofer choices. Equipment will be racked on an ABS panel behind the rear seat just like my Raptor.
Thoughts?

 

[thescher]

Interesting - where do you intend to put the second system speakers? And I will tell you w/out removing the factory radio amp there is not a lot of room behind the rear seat for additional amps & processors. It's pretty skinny back there & your Raptor has a ton more room than the Maverick does. I believe that there are a couple companies making replacement after market head units such as Stinger or Sony. You may want to just replace the whole head unit as I am seeing reports on this blog & the other on (Maverick Truck Club) of the factory head units freezing & shutting down. Also I was talking to an Audison rep & he said that car manufacturers are making aftermarket head units obsolete because of all the cars integration with the factory system. I know in the 2016 Ford transit cargo van we have that you have to leave the 4" screen in place even installing an aftermarket head unit because the radio is connected & goes through it. So, DSPs may be the way to go but what about the TV Zen digital to analog converter was limiting in your Raptor? Currently companies like Crutchfield & the aftermarket headhunt manufacturers don't have a lot of info to sell/design stuff for the Maverick yet.